Q & A with Mary - Session 4

IT’S ALL ABOUT DAT BASE (‘bout dat base)

Question #4: “My hair needs more volume.” “What can I do to get more volume out of my hair? It just lays there.”

Answer #4: I hear this complaint all the time, and I want you to know I feel your pain. My hair is volume challenged, too! There are quite a few reasons why, but I would rather address how to correct it, than go into all the possible reasons it refuses to lift off the scalp.

Here are 9 quickies to address the volume issue:

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  1. CHANGE YOUR PART! Chances are, you have a favorite place to part your hair. It's where your hair likes to fall naturally (somewhere in the middle or off-center), or on the side closest to it. Problem is, that's also where your hair lies the most flat, and you're training it to stay that way. Flipping your part to the opposite side creates instant volume at the crown; if you're worried about looking lopsided, then do it while your hair is still wet. To build the most height, try a deep side part on the opposite side in dry hair, misting lightly with hairspray to hold. Bam! Model worthy!

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2. BACK-BRUSH IT! Teasing has a bad rep. It doesn't have to mean aggressively back-combing your hair with a fine-toothed comb to create massive tangles (which are a nightmare to get out in the shower). You can actually create soft volume by back-brushing the roots, using a large paddle brush instead.

It’s best to pin up the uppermost layer of the hair, and then back-brush the rest, working section by section. Holding each section taut and away from the head, brush in a downward motion at the roots in three quick strokes. To make the volume last, spray each back-brushed area lightly, with hairspray. Once you've completed all the sections, let down the rest of the hair, leaving it smooth. Just don’t let your boyfriend try to run his fingers through your hair. *wink

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3. BLOW-DRY UPSIDE DOWN. The best shortcut to a voluminous blowout is just flipping your head upside down. I know it sounds too easy, but it's exactly how I blow dry all my fine-haired clients hair. Well, I don’t have them flip upside down, but I use a technique that creates the same results. But, YOU, can flip your hair upside down while blowing. Just remember to aim the heat at the roots, not the ends. The reason this works is because upside down, your roots are automatically lifting off your scalp, which is how you want them to dry.

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4. BOOST YOUR ROOTS! Root-boosting products are your friends. Think of them as the scaffolding to your hairstyle. They provide structure and support for any lift you manually create near the roots, helping your style last all day (or even several days).

Look for a product specifically designed for fine hair, so it won't weigh it down, and apply all over the head, right at the scalp. (I like Scruples Direct Volume). Make sure you use it on damp hair (towel dried) cause root-boosters won't work once hair is dried. And don't be afraid to layer your volume-building products, adding mousse and/or blow-dry spray through the lengths.

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5. PUT IN HOT ROLLERS! Everybody forgets about hot rollers. But hot rollers are awesome! Unlike curling irons and flat irons, there's no special technique required; just throw them in while you're doing your makeup and 20 minutes later, you'll have sweet volume. This is a great trick if your hair is already dry and it's too late to build volume into your blow-dry.

All you need to do is choose which direction you want your waves. Rolling away from the face gives you glam Hollywood waves, while towards the face creates a more vintage, Veronica Lake effect. To make your volume last, mist each section with hairspray before rolling, and let the rollers cool completely before taking out. Then brush out and shape your waves for a soft, modern look.

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6. USE VOLUME BUILDING SHAMPOO…like Scruples Structure Bath, found here https://www.elementssalonnc.com/products/

It's a no-brainer, but you'd be surprised at the difference a good shampoo makes to your volume goals. If you are purchasing “over the counter” a good rule of thumb is to use products that are clear or at least translucent, since they're the least likely to be loaded with heavy conditioning ingredients. Nothing white and creamy for seriously fine hair. And yes, it IS possible to find volume-building shampoo that doesn't strip your hair and is color safe. My suggestion (above), is such a shampoo!

Also go easy on the conditioner. Apply it to the bottom half or third of your hair, and make sure to rinse it well, but don’t strip it all out. A really great daily conditioner for fine, limp hair, is Scruples Quickseal Detangling Conditioner. It’s very light weight and nourishing to the hair. Find it here https://www.elementssalonnc.com/products/

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7. SLEEP IN A BUN! Don't knock the scrunchie. It's super-useful for this overnight volume cheat—no heat required! After showering at night, pull hair up into a high, loose bun while it's still damp, and secure with a soft elastic (tight plastic ones may create creases). Your hair will dry lifted off the scalp, so when you wake up and take it down, you'll have insta-volume, plus soft waves.

Another way to get easy volume while you sleep is with a stretchy fabric headband. Wear it across your forehead and wrap sections of damp hair around it until all the hair is wrapped up, securing with pins if required. Take it out the next morning, and you'll have gorgeous Hollywood waves.

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8. APPLY DRY SHAMPOO! Are you waiting until day two or three to use your dry shampoo? You might want to reconsider. By the time you notice your hair feels dirty, your scalp's natural oils are already sabotaging your volume, traveling down the hair shaft and starting to weigh down your strands.

I recommend a preventive approach, if your scalp has a natural tendency to get oily, by coating your scalp with a layer of dry shampoo as soon as you finish blow-drying. That way, there's already a barrier to the oil, stopping it in its tracks and helping your volume style to last longer. Bonus: dry shampoo is innately volume-building. Spray it through the lengths as well, to create even more texture.

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9. ADD COLOR! Yep. You read that right! Color creates volume. If you don't lighten your hair, then here's a little secret from those of us who do. It's not just about the color—it's also about the texture it gives you. A little bleach creates added body and roughs up the hair cuticle so it's not so "slippery". Basically, a godsend for anyone whose hair lies flat and won't hold a volume style.

But you don't have to resort to a whole new hair color to benefit from the volumizing effect of bleach. A few peekaboo highlights, placed in the under-layers of your hair and in a tone-on-tone color, can give you just enough of a boost, without having to worry about re-growth.

And, there you have it!

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