Q & A with Mary - Session 4
IT’S ALL ABOUT DAT BASE (‘bout dat base)
Question #4: “My hair needs more volume.” “What can I do to get more volume out of my hair? It just lays there.”
Answer #4: I hear this complaint all the time, and I want you to know I feel your pain. My hair is volume challenged, too! There are quite a few reasons why, but I would rather address how to correct it, than go into all the possible reasons it refuses to lift off the scalp.
Here are 9 quickies to address the volume issue:
CHANGE YOUR PART! Chances are, you have a favorite place to part your hair. It's where your hair likes to fall naturally (somewhere in the middle or off-center), or on the side closest to it. Problem is, that's also where your hair lies the most flat, and you're training it to stay that way. Flipping your part to the opposite side creates instant volume at the crown; if you're worried about looking lopsided, then do it while your hair is still wet. To build the most height, try a deep side part on the opposite side in dry hair, misting lightly with hairspray to hold. Bam! Model worthy!
2. BACK-BRUSH IT! Teasing has a bad rep. It doesn't have to mean aggressively back-combing your hair with a fine-toothed comb to create massive tangles (which are a nightmare to get out in the shower). You can actually create soft volume by back-brushing the roots, using a large paddle brush instead.
It’s best to pin up the uppermost layer of the hair, and then back-brush the rest, working section by section. Holding each section taut and away from the head, brush in a downward motion at the roots in three quick strokes. To make the volume last, spray each back-brushed area lightly, with hairspray. Once you've completed all the sections, let down the rest of the hair, leaving it smooth. Just don’t let your boyfriend try to run his fingers through your hair. *wink
3. BLOW-DRY UPSIDE DOWN. The best shortcut to a voluminous blowout is just flipping your head upside down. I know it sounds too easy, but it's exactly how I blow dry all my fine-haired clients hair. Well, I don’t have them flip upside down, but I use a technique that creates the same results. But, YOU, can flip your hair upside down while blowing. Just remember to aim the heat at the roots, not the ends. The reason this works is because upside down, your roots are automatically lifting off your scalp, which is how you want them to dry.
4. BOOST YOUR ROOTS! Root-boosting products are your friends. Think of them as the scaffolding to your hairstyle. They provide structure and support for any lift you manually create near the roots, helping your style last all day (or even several days).
Look for a product specifically designed for fine hair, so it won't weigh it down, and apply all over the head, right at the scalp. (I like Scruples Direct Volume). Make sure you use it on damp hair (towel dried) cause root-boosters won't work once hair is dried. And don't be afraid to layer your volume-building products, adding mousse and/or blow-dry spray through the lengths.
5. PUT IN HOT ROLLERS! Everybody forgets about hot rollers. But hot rollers are awesome! Unlike curling irons and flat irons, there's no special technique required; just throw them in while you're doing your makeup and 20 minutes later, you'll have sweet volume. This is a great trick if your hair is already dry and it's too late to build volume into your blow-dry.
All you need to do is choose which direction you want your waves. Rolling away from the face gives you glam Hollywood waves, while towards the face creates a more vintage, Veronica Lake effect. To make your volume last, mist each section with hairspray before rolling, and let the rollers cool completely before taking out. Then brush out and shape your waves for a soft, modern look.
6. USE VOLUME BUILDING SHAMPOO…like Scruples Structure Bath, found here https://www.elementssalonnc.com/products/
It's a no-brainer, but you'd be surprised at the difference a good shampoo makes to your volume goals. If you are purchasing “over the counter” a good rule of thumb is to use products that are clear or at least translucent, since they're the least likely to be loaded with heavy conditioning ingredients. Nothing white and creamy for seriously fine hair. And yes, it IS possible to find volume-building shampoo that doesn't strip your hair and is color safe. My suggestion (above), is such a shampoo!
Also go easy on the conditioner. Apply it to the bottom half or third of your hair, and make sure to rinse it well, but don’t strip it all out. A really great daily conditioner for fine, limp hair, is Scruples Quickseal Detangling Conditioner. It’s very light weight and nourishing to the hair. Find it here https://www.elementssalonnc.com/products/
7. SLEEP IN A BUN! Don't knock the scrunchie. It's super-useful for this overnight volume cheat—no heat required! After showering at night, pull hair up into a high, loose bun while it's still damp, and secure with a soft elastic (tight plastic ones may create creases). Your hair will dry lifted off the scalp, so when you wake up and take it down, you'll have insta-volume, plus soft waves.
Another way to get easy volume while you sleep is with a stretchy fabric headband. Wear it across your forehead and wrap sections of damp hair around it until all the hair is wrapped up, securing with pins if required. Take it out the next morning, and you'll have gorgeous Hollywood waves.
8. APPLY DRY SHAMPOO! Are you waiting until day two or three to use your dry shampoo? You might want to reconsider. By the time you notice your hair feels dirty, your scalp's natural oils are already sabotaging your volume, traveling down the hair shaft and starting to weigh down your strands.
I recommend a preventive approach, if your scalp has a natural tendency to get oily, by coating your scalp with a layer of dry shampoo as soon as you finish blow-drying. That way, there's already a barrier to the oil, stopping it in its tracks and helping your volume style to last longer. Bonus: dry shampoo is innately volume-building. Spray it through the lengths as well, to create even more texture.
9. ADD COLOR! Yep. You read that right! Color creates volume. If you don't lighten your hair, then here's a little secret from those of us who do. It's not just about the color—it's also about the texture it gives you. A little bleach creates added body and roughs up the hair cuticle so it's not so "slippery". Basically, a godsend for anyone whose hair lies flat and won't hold a volume style.
But you don't have to resort to a whole new hair color to benefit from the volumizing effect of bleach. A few peekaboo highlights, placed in the under-layers of your hair and in a tone-on-tone color, can give you just enough of a boost, without having to worry about re-growth.
And, there you have it!
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Beauty Q & A with Mary...Session 3
Heyyyy!!!! Is this really week 3? I feel time slipping through my world, like spaghetti on my fork. We are coming round the bend with this beauty session. Three down, two to go! So…today’s question Is a little different in that it’s not addressing an actual beauty need, or question. This question comes from a client who comes from the old school of a handshake being good enough. Oh yeah. I could really get into that, if it were but a quality that was evident in today’s world. I love trust, honor, respect. Sad to say, many of us get caught up in the day-to-day hustle, that we now must have automated schedulers with confirmation tabs to poke. If those tabs fail to get pushed (or poked), crazy business owners, such as myself, get a bit concerned. Please read on, dear one…
Q #3. If I pre-book with you, why do I need to confirm? I’ll be there unless I call to let you know I can’t make it.
A #3. I, like most service businesses, use software that keeps our hours working as smoothly as possible. Like a well-oiled machine. Here are the reasons I need that confirmation:
Many times I have people waiting to get in to see me on the day that works best for them. Sometimes, I have to book them too far out for their needs, so I will put them on a waiting list. Other times, they need a last minute appointment. My booking software will give a 3 day notice and ask for a confirmation with Elements Salon. If the client fails to do so, they will receive another notice the day before they are due in to see me. That is the 24 hour notice of cancellation time. If I see they have not confirmed, that means I can call the other person (who has been waiting for an appointment), that a time has become available, and they should get their ducks in a row, and plan an outing.
When I see that an appointment has not been confirmed, at least 24 hours before the time, my fingers get itchy to text or call the one waiting for an opening. I will first try making contact to see if original client is still planning on making their scheduled appointment. If they do not respond quickly, it puts me in a tight spot. Should I call the client waiting? What if I do, and the original client shows up for their non-confirmed appointment? Confirmation is soooo important.
Possibilities are numerous. Instead of confirming when my software gives notice (3 days prior to the appointment), some may be busy and think they will get to it later. Later never comes. Again, for numerous reasons. Here is what my brain is going over at that point, as possibilities:
A. They have become ill, requiring hospitalization (unconscious, perhaps). Or just really sick…in a bad way. What’s a phone, kinda sick.
B. They have gotten into an accident (God forbid). Seriously, who would think about a hair appointment during times such as this?
C. A family member has called them out of town for an emergency (and it slips their mind).
D. They’re leaving their options open.
E. They want to test my grace. Nah, my clients are pretty dang awesome. But, OTHER business owners may have their grace tested, from time to time.
F. Work has distracted them so fiercely, work is all they can think about. "What hair appointment??? “Wait, when was my appointment? Did I make an appointment? Oh, I didn’t see where it said to confirm.”
MEMO: I will always give grace where it is needed. I have many clients that are, and have been since I moved to NC, regulars. Many pre-schedule their time with me, the entire year, making sure their spot will be secure. Should they ever need to switch their times around, it is never a problem. I will do my darnedest to get them into another spot they can deal with. Because they are so faithful. Even if they should get stuck in traffic, need to stop for coffee after work, while on the way to the salon, I have no issue with that. They are my people. Sorry, I refuse to say “tribe”. That’s the latest thing going around, now. Have you noticed?! Everybody has a “tribe”. I’m just not into that.
The moral to this story? Common courtesy goes a very long way. In any world…not just the business one. Confirm. 10/4 good buddy. Over and out…
NEXT QUESTION?
Beauty Q & A with Mary...Brow Shaping 101
Since I didn’t get run out of town with the first blog post of Beauty Q & A with Mary, I will move forward with the 2nd question asked of me. Today’s inquiry is this:
Q. How can I keep my eyebrows in shape without having to get them waxed all the time?
A. Our lives seem to become more and more involved, even though we have everything we need, right at our fingertips. So, I get it. Who has time to be running to the salon every couple of weeks? Right?
If it seems as if the beauty gods have conspired against you and given you brows that are harder than average to manage, read on, as I break this down for you.
Bushy, Coarse, or Curly Brows. Thick and wild brows will need tamed just a bit before you start to shape them. Here’s what you do: Brush your brow hair straight up. Trim any hairs that extend way above the brow line. CAUTION: Do not trim these hairs even with the top of your brow line or they will be too short when they are brushed back into place, making them harder to control. Let them extend about 3/8 of an inch beyond the top of the brow. Also, bushy or coarse eyebrows should be treated just like you treat the hair on your head. Put a dab of conditioner on them to help style. OR, you can shape them by just wetting, then using a brow gel to hold in place. Hey! I know where you can get some of this stuff! *wink *wink
Sparse or Over plucked Brows. Perhaps your brows have always been naturally sparse. Or maybe you went a little crazy with your tweezers and now you’re left with brows that barely show at all or that have major gaps. If you’re not in the habit of over plucking, your brows may grow in again, although it can take several weeks. Or, the condition may be permanent. Either way, it’s not a hopeless situation. The quickest and least stressful way to shape this kind of brow is with a stencil. Or, you could just freehand it, if those digits on the end of your hand are steady as she goes. None of us want squiggly brows, right? When using a stencil, be sure to know which shape is most flattering to your face shape. Don’t just draw anything on there. Yikes! Position the stencil where it should be and fill in with either brow pencil (using short, hairlike strokes) or brow powder (which adds much-needed volume). You could even try pencil first, then add the powder for a more natural look. Memo: You will still need to tweeze any hairs that grow outside your brow line. Sorry…beauty can sometimes be painful.
A Sagging Brow Line. Unfortunately, gravity is a fact of life. Unless you spend days standing on your head, your brows will migrate south as you get older, along with the rest of your body. Talk about a difficult brow to shape!!! But…there is a remedy! Yep, yep! Simply hold the skin up and taut while applying your brow pencil or powder. When you let go, the brow will fall back into position and look natural. Also consider adding a higher peak to your brows. While you should definitely choose the best brow shape for your face shape and features, adding a higher peak will give some much-needed lift to your brow line. Just don’t get all Dark Knight on us.
So…beautiful brow people. If you want more of this (cause there is waaayyyy more, give me a shout-out in the comments, and/or, IM me. I look forward to your engagement with Q & A with Mary!
Beauty Q & A by Mary
IT’S HERE!!! IT’S HERE!!! The first of 5, Q & A’s with Mary!
I’m gonna be right up front with y’all. Even though I am doing only hair and brows, at my salon, I have worked with skin issues for many a year. It’s one of my favorite things to do. Having the privilege of controlling, and in some cases, correcting, angry skin, is so rewarding! So, this edition is going to address a skin question. The request actually surprised me a bit, because I am a dyed in the wool, professional product only, kinda gal. But, here we go…
QUESTION #1: Know any good DIY masks for my face?
ANSWER #1: I don’t normally do the DIY when it comes to skin care (most of them tend to go bad if they aren’t used within a couple of days), but, since I am here to serve YOU…Yep! I do. And, since it’s my favorite time of the year, let’s take a look at…
PUMPKINS! They are the king of autumn produce, and it just so happens they are loaded with vitamins A, C, and E (all known to fight wrinkles. Wowsa!) plus heaps of beta-carotene, zinc, potassium, and antioxidants, which can help eliminate redness. Truth be told, that’s probably why we all love pumpkin pie. It gives us that satisfied, happy, calming feeling.
This facial is so refreshing, but expect a bit of a tingle, just the tiniest bit, when you first apply it. Your complexion will be fresh and glowing once you’re done. The concoction smells pretty darn good, too, and it’s entirely edible, so you know it’s good for your skin. As an added bonus, the mask is incredibly easy to make, and you probably already have the ingredients in your kitchen right now!
Ready for this? Alrighty, then…
INGREDIENTS: (Yields one facial mask)
2 Tbsp organic canned pumpkin puree or 1 small pumpkin
1/2 tsp organic honey (A local raw honey is best, in my opinion)
1/2 tsp milk (I prefer whole milk, verses skim). You can also substitute soy or almond, if you are anti whole milk.
DIRECTIONS:
1: Start with clean skin. Remove all makeup and wash your face with your regular cleanser. NO TONER, PLEASE!!!
2: Combine pumpkin puree, honey, and milk in a small bowl and mix well. If using a fresh pumpkin (or leftovers from a carved jack-o-lantern), scrape the insides and remove the seeds. Beat the gooey insides to a creamy pulp and mix with honey and milk.
3: Apply the mask using your fingers or a medium-sized makeup brush; avoid getting the mixture too close to the eyes. You can also apply to the neck and décolletage, but you’ll probably need to double the ingredients.
4: Allow the mask to set for about 20 minutes.
5: Gently wash off the mask with a warm, damp washcloth (no soap, please) and follow with a moisturizer.
P.S. Milk is a powerhouse of vitamins for good skin including vitamin A. It not only cleanses skin of excess oils and dirt which clog pores to form acne but also contains lactic acid, which fights off microbes that are responsible for it. Because milk is rich in lactic acid, a type of alpha hydroxy acid that helps break down dead cells, it enables skin to regenerate quickly, helping to heal dry, withered skin.
P.P.S. Pumpkin is packed with fruit enzymes and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which increase cell turnover, to brighten and smooth the skin. Pumpkin contains antioxidant Vitamin A and Vitamin C (as noted above) to help soften and soothe the skin and boost collagen production to prevent the signs of aging.
Next question?
A little something extra to boost your day…